Peppermint Charcoal Soap Recipe

Peppermint Charcoal Soap Recipe 1

So if you don’t already know, activated charcoal is pretty amazing stuff.

It acts as a natural way to remove impurities from the skin, absorb oil, eliminate blackheads and acne, and stimulate blood flow, resulting in a smooth, youthful complexion.

Yes, please!

But plain, charcoal colored soap? Boring. This recipe mixes in goat milk, shea and peppermint essential oil for a pretty cool looking bar of soap.

I LOVE the way it turned out!

Wanna make it? Get all the ingredients here!

Peppermint Charcoal Soap Recipe 2

Here’s what you’ll need:

2 lbs. Goat Milk MP Base

¼ to ½ lb. Shea Butter MP Base

1-2 TBS. Activated Charcoal

½ to 1 tsp. Peppermint Essential Oil

Silicone Square Soap Mold

Peppermint Charcoal Soap Recipe 3

Start by melting down the goat milk soap base. I cut mine into evenly sized cubes and heat it in the microwave (short intervals, stir in between) until it’s a nice, smooth liquid.

Stir in the essential oil. You can adjust this to suit your preference but always start with a small amount and reassess before adding more.

Peppermint Charcoal Soap Recipe 5

Now for the charcoal!

Be warned- this stuff will get everywhere if you’re not careful! Even during cleanup when I wiped down my counters that looked clean, there was a layer of black dust on my paper towel.

Peppermint Charcoal Soap Recipe 4

Stir until the charcoal is completely incorporated into the soap base. Be sure to scoop form the bottom in case some of the powder settles. When you’re done it should be a nice, dark charcoal color!

Peppermint Charcoal Soap Recipe 6

Carefully pour the mixture evenly into each square of the soap mold.

Peppermint Charcoal Soap Recipe 8

Melt the shea soap base the same way we melted the goat milk base. If you only want a light swirl, use ¼ lb. If you want a heavier swirl in each soap, melt the full ½ lb.

Working with one soap at a time, pour a small amount of shea soap slowly into the charcoal soap. Since this step is more decorative, I didn’t add any fragrance to it.

Peppermint Charcoal Soap Recipe 7

Using a wooden skewer, slowly swirl the shea soap around to create a marble look. Don’t over-swirl the soaps or you’ll end up blending the white soap onto the gray soap completely (we don’t want that- we want a pretty swirled look!).

Peppermint Charcoal Soap Recipe 9

Repeat the swirling step on each soap. Every bar will look different- which is what I love! No two bars are the same!

Peppermint Charcoal Soap Recipe 10

Allow the soap bars to cool and harden completely before popping them out of the molds.

Package them up in clear cello bags so that the beautiful patterns show, or use one right away!


Peppermint Charcoal Soap Recipe

Author: admin

76 thoughts on “Peppermint Charcoal Soap Recipe

  1. With the MP bases, would I need to use equipment separate from what I use for cooking? I would love to try out some of the MP soaps, but I want to make sure I’m keeping it safe.

    1. Hi Christine!

      yes it’s best to use equipment not used for cooking as the soap bases are not meant to be taken internally.

      Hope this helps.

  2. Hello, I’m reading up on your M & P recipes using activated charcoal, can you use the stuff that is left over in your fireplace instead or is that different?

  3. Hi do you have any more direction for the swirling part, should you let the shea mp cool down a bit? what about the skin the develops and when you pour the shea it gets all lumpy? this was kinda frustrating and no mention that it wasn’t going to fill up the every pocket in the mold unless you made them smaller?my soaps came out all black and lumpy, help!

    1. In my experience when swirling colors with MP bases you have to work pretty quickly. Maybe pre melt the Shea while mixing the base that way it will only take a few seconds to re-liquify the shea after you’ve poured the base into the molds?

      1. Absolutely not! If the first base is too warm when you add the Shea, you end up with a nearly-completely mixed, gray end result!

        Next time I make these soaps, I will let the charcoal/goat mix cool and harden a bit before adding in the Shea.

      1. When mixing MP bases to create a swirl pattern you need to pour them at lower temperatures, but need to work quickly. I usually pour mine between 125-130 degrees. If you pour them at too high of a temperature, the bases will mix and you will not have any color separation.

  4. Hello!
    I am a true believer in activated charcoal. It is wonderful as a teeth whitener (hard to imagine, I know) My question is:Does the soap leave black residue on the skin or tub/shower? I’m just thinking of how much ‘swishing’ it takes to get it off the gums and tongue! I really want to use this recipe-sounds wonderful!

    1. It wont leave a residue on skin/face. Add a little honey to make it foam up better and that will really help. I use my soap every morning.

  5. Hi, am gonna be trying making a soap for the first time and guess melt and pour method is best and easiest to start with. Since am a huge charcoal fan will be starting with this recipe. Just wanted to ask if the same marble effect can be obtained by dividing the base into 2 parts instead of adding in shea butter for same? I mean i divide the melted goat milk base into 2 and mix charcoal in one part and then pour in the other on top like you did with shea?

  6. Hello! I used to use MP suspension soap and just switched to an all natural version (non suspension) is the base you used a suspension base? Just want to make sure my non suspension base will work fine!

  7. Hello, I cannot seem to find activated charcoal locally without having to order it. The only thing I can find is the capsules. Could I cut the capsules in half and use that? Or would that he different than ordering the powder?


  9. Actually I was looking I have the Goat-milk Base and I have one of your Oatmeal Shea i beleive I got that one bcz you were out of the shea…You think I can just substitute the base and keep some base to use as swirl…??? NEWBIE…LOL..also thanks for your very timely response 🙂

    1. You can surely use those bases as substitutes! Just be sure to stick to the same measurements in the recipe.

      Let us know how it goes.

  10. This soap is absolutely one of my best sellers,,, I’ve even had people go to natural grocery store and buy activated charcoal soap, to turn around and call me and say hey do you have any on hand. I go through somewhere between 24 and 36 bars a week. And I have figured out how to infuse the charcoal into the goat’s milk without creating too many bubbles,, but I could use some help with is; does anybody have some good ideas on how to store this stuff and I do mean the charcoal powder,, my Lord it is a mess and so hard to control. I’ll take a shower and be blowing black stuff out of my nose for 3 days.
    Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. And those of you out there who have issues with infusing the charcoal into the goat’s milk, I put the two tablespoons of charcoal into two ounces of glycerin, I blend it in there and then I poured into the goat’s milk it makes for a much smoother transition…

    1. Thanks for your feedback; with regards to storing, you can try a sealed glass container, and when using you can try it in an environment where there isn’t much wind, as well as using a dust mask to protect your nose.

  11. Just tried this receipe and m&p soap bases for the very first time. I don’t know what went wrong, but do m&p bases harden quickly? Mine turned into a rubbery substance while I was melting the Shea butter and what a mess I had. I could barely do the swirl cause the goat milk set like instantly leaving me with a drying paint skin like texture. Just awful and I followed these instructions.

    1. I’m sorry to learn of your experience. The melt and pure bases takes up to 2 hours to harden; however, the Shea Butter can start harden much quicker. Try melting both a bit more, then attempt the steps again. It should work out just fine; let us know how it goes!

  12. Some instructions tell you to mix the charcoal with alcohol before adding to the M&P base. Is this necessary? Supposedly the alcohol will disappear during the hardening.

    1. Alcohol is important if layering the soap; however, since it is being mixed to create a swirl effect, alcohol is unnecessary.

    1. If you full each mold cavity to captivity you should get approximately 10, but you are spread it out like we did to get the 12 bars.

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